@hupp32 might argue I'm wasting my time. But my "new to me"

Jun 4

@hupp32 might argue I'm wasting my time. But my "new to me" 12 year old truck looked great until I ran it through the car wash and all of a sudden all this rust that I failed to find during my 10 minute inspection started to show. So bit by bit I've been wire brushing and coating it with POR15. Fortunately the silver is great match. For some reason only the bottom edge of the drivers door was rusting. This was surface rust so in this case I might be doing something worth while.

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Jun 4, 2026

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Replies (21)

· Jun 4

This is what it looked like last October before I washed it. They did a pretty good job of puffing the truck. I should have known better but I was desperate and needed something in 48 hours. And I'm a sucker for a clean one owner carfax.

· Jun 4

That body style uses that rubber weatherstrip down the bottom of the rocker panel, doesn’t it? That’s what is causing the surface rust on the door. The rubber gets dirt on it and chafes through the paint. So in that case, you’re definitely not wasting your time because it’s only surface rust. You could put a strip of clear vinyl him down the bottom edge of the door to stop that from happening.

· Jun 4

100% that is where the weather stripping touches the door. This is the only door on the truck doing that and it makes sense it would be the drivers.

· Jun 4

I like your POR15 approach and if that is the extent of rust after 12 years….. I’m not too upset. Is it parked inside?

I put a new transmission on my F150 before it hit 100K miles, and 95% of its use was me riding solo with an empty load.
I really want a new truck, but hate to spend $ on it.

· Jun 4

John, is it the 10R80 10 speed? Known for issues in the 2017-2020 era. If you look up reliability ratings the 2014 F150 is the one to have. The 2015 being the complete revamp in aluminum.

And showed you the good side of the truck. The passenger side is a disaster. Sigh..

· Jun 4

The POR15 will do a great job on surface rust but on the F150 a lot of the issues like the cab corners and wheel arches the rust is coming from the back. If it is bubbling around the arches you are basically screwed.

· Jun 4

I break this bad news to at least two people a week now. I haven’t had one person want to pay to fix it properly yet. I’ll be doing the hillbilly solution on one truck that the owner already paid someone else to patch up and it’s letting loose again.

· Jun 4

I hate to say it but I live on a gravel road and when my 2019 Silverado gets too rusty, it's getting fender flares.
It will be getting on in miles by then and probably won't be worth fixing properly because the dealer won't be supporting the onboard computers by then.
Unfortunately, new vehicles are appliances like a toaster or a microwave.
When this truck dies, I'll be finding something older to fix and drive because it won't need internet access to keep it's software updated.
I'll save the proper fixing for the 1989 F250HD Diesel that's sitting in my yard.

· Jun 4

I don’t blame you. People always look at me like I’m crazy when I tell them that the best thing they can do about the rust on their truck is absolutely nothing. Much better off taking that money you were going to waste on it and put it in the bank or invest it, and just drive the thing into the sunset.

· Jun 4

This is brilliant! Do you have a recommendation for my 14 F150?

· Jun 4

Liquid cavity wax inside all of the panels. You can’t stop the damage that’s been done but sealing everything off to keep more water and oxygen from attacking everything will slow the progression. They make 3 foot wands that go on an aerosol can that spray 360 degrees so you cdd as n flood the insides of panels through any opening you can find. Also having the chassis costed every year with some type of oil based rustproofing will slow that part of it down.

· Jun 4

I will get the cavity wax and the other stuff you recommend and douse everything. Any recommendations on the flares? The truck is a 14.

· Jun 4

The ones like you posted look fairly original and not too tacky. If I’m not mistaken, Bushwacker does sell an OEM style flare. Their quality is better than others I’ve seen. The bummer is that years ago, I had a set somewhere for that body style that I ordered for a customer and he stuffed me. No idea where they ever went.

· Jun 5

I believe those are Bushwacker. They were double the price of anything else I saw.

· Jun 5

Yes, they’re definitely more expensive but in my experience, they’re well made and fit properly. They don’t usually require any drilling.

· Jun 4

Transtar sells an “Amber Rustproofing” that you should be able to find at most paint stores. It’s thin so it runs into every gap between panels and it will even wick upward into joints. We use a similar product inside every welded on panel we replace. It’s the only hope of controlling rust when you don’t have the ability togalvanize the factory does.

(edited)

· Jun 4

Also, my inner Bond villain says take the money you were going to put into chasing the rust and invest in a company that sells calcium chloride to municipalities. That way, no matter what happens, you win. World domination will be a certainty at that point.😉

· Jun 4

These looks very similar to the factory flares on the Platinum, etc. The flat black should look fine with the silver.

https://www.stage3motorsports.com/20925-02-09-14-f150-bushwacker-street-fender-flares.html?utm_source=google&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=&utm_term=&device=m&utm_prodid=HUS28021917&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23738271342&gbraid=0AAAAADNe0fm2Ffs8et0TchsdX4W_E5-R_

· Jun 5

AJ, if it makes you feel any better, it could be worse. This is what I found when I put my truck up on the lift this morning.

(edited)

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· Jun 5

Don't really feel any better. What year is that?

· Jun 5

Well, I tried. 😄 It’s a 2012. I got my money’s worth out of it but it’s still a shame.