How much to tighten cylinder head bolts?

If you have taken the cyl. head off, can we presume you have followed "standard shop proceedure" and made certain both mating surfaces (meaning BOTH the cyl. head and the block surface) have been cleaned and are PERFECTLY level ? Because in-line engines have such long heads, "warping" is likely, and should be taken care of by "head milling" / "surface grinding".

Use only a head gasket like the origina, which was a "sandwich of VERY thin metal on both sides of a asbestos or similar "filler" with copper rings around the cyls. and water passages. I would also coat the studs with marine grease, so that should you ever have to take the cyl. head off again, it will come off relatively easily.

There is a "head tightening sequence" for each manufacturer - Packard shop manuals, like most cars, carry this. It is a combination of a criss-cross and a "out from center" pattern. Here's what I would suggest:

Start from the center's middle row, and work out to each end, at about 25-30 ft lbs. Then start criss-crossing the outer bolts, center-out, also to 25-30 lbs.

When you are all done, THEN go ahead and go to 60-65 lbs, same pattern as above.

Then drive the car for a half hour, let it cool over-night, repeat the same sequence.

Because there is so much "crush" to the old-style head-gaskets, I recommend you repeat this process (at all times when the engine is COLD) for several driving, then cooling cycles at 250 and then again at 500 miles.

(Why couldn't I have been both good looking AND rich?)