Cast iron head crack repair - plasma or hot welding shop sought

I don't know if you will have to look this far but there is a good shop and an expert at cast iron welding repairs on the West Coast. Jack Geertsema has completely reconstructed a number of written-off Cadillac V16's and other classic engines. Last time I saw him he was in the process of trying to seel his shop in Oakland and moving out to the countryside. If you need it, his address is one of the following:

If he still has his shop in Oakland:

Jack Geertsema

Excelsweld USA

510-534-3303

If Jack has moved to Kelseville CA:

Antique & Classic Casting Rebuilders

707-278-0223

Richard F., the previous post, is right about Excelsweld in Oakland. They've been around for ages and routinely fix expensive industrial engines every bit as daunting as Classic motors--some nearly as old-- [color:"black"] and those engines have to work hard for their keep. Just a couple months ago they repaired the exhaust manifold on a friend's mid-'30s senior Packard.

Thanks folks. I'll keep Oakland shop in mind if no one can help me with the name of the prior shop in Ohio. I'm in Charlotte, NC, so shipping and time is an issue, but the Oakland shop may be my choice.

Ed

A friend has just had a 1932 Studebaker block welded by a shop in Whicita, KS but he is traveling and I can't get the name of the shop for about a week or so.

A local Chicago rebuilder uses a place in Grand Rapids, MI but all I know is their name is Williams Welding, I couldn't find a web site by that name.

Contact Kim Ramont at Auto Machine Inc, St Charles, IL 630-584-1188 he can supply the number.

Stude8

Just an update on my 1934 Rolls Royce and the head crack repairs. We finally sent it to Excelweld in Oakland CA. It took them from August to December to repair it and return it. It appears that they did repair all the cracks, including some we hadn't seen, but their weld appearance is a bit "sloppy", including dripping weld on to a manifold attachment surface, a freeze plug and a manifold stud - thus making those two parts "nonremovable". They also tossed out the custom made wooden shipping crate we'd shipped the head in and returned the head in a single wall cardboard box, with just newspaper as packing. As a result one of the studs that holds on the rocker arm cover was bent badly. My mechanic has now "cleaned up" the head, resurfaced the manifold joint surfaces and reinstalled all the parts (valve guides, valves, etc.) and will be putting in back on the car next week. So at this point, I'm not yet ready to "rule" on the repairs done by Excelweld, other than to say that I really expected better quality work and careful treatment of the head for the cost. But, if it works and holds pressure and water as we hope, I'll be OK with it as it was much less than new or rebuilt head from UK or other source. Proof will be at 65 mph in a month or two I guess.

EdA

Ed,

When you were dealing with Excelweld, were you working with Jack Geertsema? Jack told me early last year he was trying to sell the company and open a smaller shop dealing solely with restoration repairs in Lake County north of San Francisco. I am wondering if he sold out and you were dealing with a new owner in Oakland. Jack always had a long and solid reputation for quality work so I am surprised by your experience if he was involved.

My mechanic dealt with the folks at the Exelweld shop. I don't know names, but will find out. I suspect new owner may be the case here, as all other references we got for this shop had been good. Head now on car and expected to be on road shortly, so I'll update again.

ED

Ed, I'll be looking for you out there soon!

Well, car still in shop. Excelwelds cardboard box return shipping resulted in two bent head studs, which couldn't be properly straightened. So now waiting on new studs from UK (no, not the Full Monty type of Stud!). Still hope to have it ready for Charlotte Auto Fair on April 3. Look for it in the AACA show. Black and Silver saloon.

Ed

Well, the "saga" of my 1934 Rolls head continues. In late March, the head was finally placed back on the motor, but required lots of "clean-up" to replace the studs bent when being shipped back from Excelweld, and also to clean out the various ports and threads where their "coating" had clogged the openings. in addition lots of work was needed to relevel the exhaust ports where they had "spilled" welding material. When head was torqued to factor specifications, it still leaked - apparently from older cracks that were jarred open again when it was shipped back or which opened up again during the heating and cooling process Excelweld used. Car actually runs some, but is leaking coolant and valves lose lubricant at more than "slow" RPMs. So back to "new head" for final fix. I'm very disappointed as we relied upon Excelweld's "we can fix this" reply when we first sent it to them. Then the quality of their work appeared sloppy (weld material "dripped" on freeze plugs, bolt holes, and exhaust ports). And then they toss out the special heavy duty wooden shipping crate we had supplied and sent it back in a single side cardboard box filled with newspaper.

We have asked them for cost relief, and I'll report again if they respond so as to be fair and complete in my report. At this point, it seems they did not live up to their great reputation among other RROC and CCAC members. Perhaps management has changed or such, but I'd recommend caution in sending them further work to do.

At this point, I have a great looking piece of "Garage Art" that I can drive short distances at about 30 mph, if I don't mind the smell and mess of leaking coolant and risk of futher engine damage. And am "saving up" to order a new head from the UK. Sure hate missing most of the summer shows and drives.

EdA

Dick Williams in Nevada, IA

Last year I had my 1932 Cadillac V8 engine rebuilt. The blocks (there are two for this engine) had more cracks in it than an earthquake zone. First I had it magnafluxed. I then built two wooden crates for each block in which I bolted the the blocks. I sent the blocks for welding. Upon return (in the same wooden crates) the blocks came back repaired without any damage or sloppiness. The engine went back into the Cadillac. I've driven the Cadillac about 2,500 miles at speeds up to 70 MPH. The engine doesn't leak a drop of water or oil and runs cool all the time, including during South Florida summer days. If you are interested I will look up the name of the engine welder and pass it along to you. The reason I didn't mention this earlier is I wanted to make sure that I was satisfied with the work done...I'm very satisfied.

Well, we gave up, ordered a new alloy head from the UK, and hope to have car on the road this week in time for Saturday's Charlotte Auto Fair and AACA show. Leaks from old head and coolant in oil resulted in much damage to pistons, so we replaced all six, resurfaced the cylindar walls, and some of the bearings. The new head was from Finnes in UK - a very nice and well finished piece. Looks as good as any casting I've ever seen. So hope to see some CCCA members in Charlotte. Look for me on pit road display on Saturday. Silver and black car - you can't miss that Flying Lady shining in the sun.

Ed Albert

Well, the "saga" is over. My 1934 Rolls Royce is back on the road with its new alloy head (a wonderful job by Finnes in UK), six new pistons, and some repolished bearings. Took it to a "cruise in" at a local hamburger place Friday night - only true classic there - drew a big crowd even from the hot rodders there. Put another 100 miles on it at freeway (50-60 mph) speeds Sunday in 75+ degree weather - quiet, powerful, and running smooth. Only drips now are from the Bijur lubrication system, and they are where they are supposed to be.

So my best advice - go ahead and spring for cost of a new head if you can find one unless welder will give you a 100% "money back" promise. My mistake was trusting a shop too far away to visit in person, and one where they may have not carried on with their past reputation.

Hope to get to a CCCA event later this fall or next year.

Ed