Antique Batteries and Cables Available

I just found (it took me a while to READ the catalog) that they offer several excellent items including a 6/12 volt battery and a master control switch.

I am thinking of putting both on the '47 so that I could control the connection of the battery and add a battery that has the best cold cranking power for the car, both of which have been suggested on here for electrical difficulties. Just an FYI!

The master control switch is a good idea especially if you have not rewired the car. With proper battery cables and good grounding to block you shouldn't need a 6/12 volt battery. I think that's just putting a bandaid on the problem.

Oh well, then I may not need it. I have no major problems with the electrical system since completely replacing the entire wiring loom. I do need to remove and clean the grounds. I have just put on the proper gauge and style of negative cable. The others, the two that connect the two heads or the radio grounds, all need to be cleaned and reattached.

Do you know of any others? I will be searching for them tonight.

Randall

Don't forget the distributor grounds. The pigtails grounding the distributor plate to the housing are especially important on Delco distributors -- and they are often poor due to grease and old paint around the pigtail ends. A poor ground here makes the car very difficult to start, it ruins the spark under cranking conditions.

Bill

Albuquerque

Oh that is right! Thanks, Bill! Say, how is the old city? I went to UNM in the 70s and got my BA in Anthropology and History there, with a secondary minor in Philosophy.

We lived on Princeton Ave across from the University, and then up in the Heights before moving to Texas in 1980. I have very fond memories of Albuquerque. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

If you aren't looking for original equipment cables, try this: I took my old very lengthy cables (36 Chrys Imp Airflow) to a truck repair shop. The young fellow there made me the cables while I waited - any gauge I wanted. Shrink wrapped ends etc. Very nice, and not expensive. (I believe this applies to speedometer cables also).

That is a very good idea. Especially on the speedometer cable. I go for authenticity until I cannot find or afford it, then use my wits. Its the mother of invention or something like that <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

One thing needs doing this spring...I must have the speedo redone. It works but the odometer is out now. I don't drive the car that much but I would like to keep the mileage at least close to real.

Big Dokk (preceding post) is right. OO-gauge solid copper battery cables available by the foot at any over-the-road truck supply. The shorter the better. They can crimp and solder the end connectors. Those and a 6-volt Optima battery are all you need. Only 19 lbs. and puts out 800 cold cranking amps.

In today's 12-volt world, "heavy duty" cable at your local auto parts emporium is still light duty by 1940s [color:\\"black\\"] standards. Consider that Packard's 1940-50 topline engine, the 356-ci 160/180 Super/Custom Eight, with 6.41:1 c.r. 1940-41, 6.85 c.r. 1942-on, was the only car retaining a gear-reduction starter, once common on high-quality cars with big engines. Cadillac's 346-ci V-8 had 7.25:1 c.r. 1941-on, yet only a conventional starter. But Cads started when new because they had the right cables, unworn distributors, etc.

Don't skimp on cables, and given a sound ignition system, you'll start.

A master battery disconnect switch is a must on any collector car. It prevents battery drain, facilitates maintenance and repair, and is a smart safeguard. Just make sure your switch is rated for more than the maximum amps your starter draws.

I bought a 00 battery cable that fits my Packard from the local napa store (around 50 or 60 inches long). I was amazed that they actually list and carry a lot of old car cables in a large gauge. Since my battery is under the seat I use a disconnect switch at the starter solenoid. I have also added a couple of inline fuses from main solenoid supply connection to protect all circuits.